You do find onboard water pumps on some caravans, however, generally, its motorhomes which tend to be fitted with onboard diaphragm water pumps. If you have no hot water, you may want to read my post through that link. I hope you found this post useful and you’re able to get your tap working again. Whilst surfing the net, I came across a neat little DIY alternative to the flexible ‘push fit’ filler pipe, it will fit almost any water tap, can handle extreme water pressure so you can fill up in record time and will not come flying out of the filler hole in the water container. Want see how to make a diy Aquaroll filler tube for yourself? Then read on. How to make yourself a DIY Aquaroll Filler Tube Step 1: With an onboard diaphragm positive displacement water pump, before the pump has pulled in water from the Aquaroll again, it will be running for a short period of time dry.

There’s nothing worse than arriving at your holiday destination, setting up your caravan and then finding out that your tap isn’t working. Often, the problem will be to do with the tap, but sometimes it can be to do with your pump and water pipe. This useful guide explains the types of water pump available and looks at the most common issues that can occur. There are two main types of water pump: Submersible water pumpsSo, you base your decision on how perfectly the pressure reducer will always operate, and on never getting anything from the water supply or your hose into the valve. The method of emptying the tank varies from caravan to caravan. Most vans drain down via a small inline valve located close to the heating system. A few tanks sit under a hatch in the floor. With these, you’ll often find a handle and pull-cord, which, when tugged, opens a valve and drains the tank. Other vehicles have an external drain tap, which sits under the edge of the caravan. Therefore its a wise investment to have a quality leisure battery charger to keep your battery healthy. For the latest information and advice on COVID-19, please refer to the latest updates by the UK Government.

An alternative is to use a pressure reducing adaptor that can connect between the high pressure supply tap, directly into the caravan inlet. This does away with the need for both the external water container and electric caravan pump, relying instead upon the on board caravan taps to stop water flow. Unfortunately these systems are more expensive and are more prone to leak. A submersible or on-board diaphragm pump can potentially be damaged by running dry, hence with no water supply. Draining the internal tank is sufficient for towing, but for winter storage, you should consider draining down the entire system.

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On a super pitch the waste water container is replaced by a length of corrugated hose that connects directly from the waste outlet of the caravan to a drain point on the pitch. Care is needed to ensure a gentle fall from the caravan to the drain, otherwise the water will flow very slowly. Be aware that there are two sizes of waste hose used so make sure you get the correct diameter for your caravan, typically 28.5mm diameter, but some caravans may still use a 23.5mm diameter hose. On one pitch, in France, we found that the water system was somewhat ‘industrial’ and the pressure so high, it kept blowing the pump connection out of the side of the van. In this case, turn the tap until the flow is reduced to a compatible level and all will be well. Water heating

Temperature sensors adjust the heating to give the required flow of hot water, and the hot water supply is carried in pipes to the tap in use. While this might not save a lot of effort, having a secondary water tank can mean that one ‘water-filling’ session will last you the whole day, or perhaps even a weekend if you’re frugal. To avoid it stagnating, water should not be left in any water tank for more than two or three days if it’s not being circulated, because there’s the potential for microbes to build up. However, what if the water pump is left running dry for longer than a short period of time described above? For instance, if you left a tap or shower running while unattended. The OP specifically mentions low pressure with 'mains water running into the caravan'. Without clarity as to what that means or how it is achieved it is difficult to answer. You seem to have discounted all but an aquaroll with a submersible pump.

Delivery

The inline switch is usually yellow and is in its drain-down setting when it’s in the upright position. When putting your caravan into winter storage, you should leave the valve in this position. If a floatation valve failed all that would happen is the water barrel would overflow. If its an external tank then there would be no risk the the caravan. If the tank were internal, then yes there would be a flooding risk. But as the floatation valves are basically a domestic float valve, just consider how we rarely give them a second thought in our domestic water tanks and cisterns. They are basically very reliable, and there is no reason why the versions used in caravans would be any less so.